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Japanese Ingredients for the World’s Top Kitchens #09
APPLE CIDER

Winner of the 2019 Japan Cider Award

2021.10.11

未熟リンゴの有効活用から生まれた洗練の味 未来に届けたい日本の食材 #09シードル
text by Michiko Watanabe / photographs by Daisuke Nakajima / English text by Susan Rogers Chikuba

Though the times are always changing, there are certain timeless ingredients from Japan that will never go out of style. Yukio Hattori, president of Hattori Nutrition College in Tokyo, introduces unique labors of love—items grown and produced with care and integrity by hardworking suppliers across the country.

Toshihiko Moriyama, the fourth-generation head of a century-old apple farm, decided to make good use of the fruit thinned out in the growing process.

“It’s a lot of work to thin a tree–we actually spend 30 percent of our time picking apples that will never be sold. We had always dreamed of making cider one day, but it didn’t occur to me to use the immature fruit until I went to France and tasted cider made from really tart apples.”

Moriyama didn’t stop at his own fruit. He negotiated with other growers and initiated a system to make use of their thinnings as well. He spent three years working with a technical research center and a yeast specialist to develop processing methods and the optimum recipe. 

“We don’t prime with sugar or use manual carbonation. Our cider is unfiltered, but has a light body and a fine bead,” he says. “It’s great with a meal.”


未熟リンゴを廃棄物ではなく原料に。摘果は6月上旬~7月下旬にかけて行われる。未熟リンゴは、これまで廃棄の道を辿っていたが、もりやま園では、果汁を搾って冷凍保存し、シードルの原料としてキープ。弘前は大学が多く、近隣の大学生たちがアルバイトに汗を流していた。
摘果前はたわわに実をつけているが、1枝に実るおよそ10個のうち、選抜して1個だけを生食用として残す。

A branch before and after thinning. On average, only one in ten apples is left to mature. 


「摘果は次の年に実をつける花芽に栄養を分けるためにも、必要な作業なんです」と、もりやま園の森山聡彦さん。

“Thinning is essential to the health of the tree and to securing a good crop in the following year,” explains Toshihiko Moriyama.

(写真左)ビール酵母で醸したシードルはポップなラベルも印象的(ボトルは記事冒頭写真)。 (写真右)自然酵母で醸した「彩香」はほんのりピンク。泡立ちがきめ細かく、味わいもナチュラル。ドラフト用のタンクでも卸している。

(photo left) Brewer’s yeast is used in the fermentation process.
(photo right) The Ayaka label has a soft pink blush and a fine foam. Draft barrels are marketed wholesale.


タンクに残った滓をバケツに溜めていたら、数分もしないうちにムクムクと元気な泡が。

Even leftover dregs are busy fermenting.

ジュースも製造。小瓶はアップルソーダ、大瓶はノンフィルタージュース。

Apple soda and non-filtered juice round out the Moriyama-en product line. 


醸造を担当する青山富士子さん。洗練された味わいは、着々と新しいシードルファンを増やしている。

Yeast expert Fujiko Aoyama oversees the fermentation process that garnered the 2019 Japan Cider Award.

◎Moriyama-en
1-10-4 Midorigaoka, Hirosaki-shi, Aomori
☎0172-78-3395 
https://moriyamaen.jp/

Instagram: @moriyamaenjp
Facebook:Moriyama-en

(The Cuisine Magazine /November 2019

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