Chef and sommelier visiting the Tomi no Oka Winery

Executive Chef Gerhard Passrugger and Sommelier Mototsugu Asada, both of the Andaz Tokyo restaurant opened in 2014, recently visited Tomi no Oka Winery. As part of a hotel that prides itself on embracing the culture unique to its location, their interest in Japanese wines is especially high.

(center)
Gerhard Passrugger
Executive Chef / head of Food & Beverage division
Andaz Tokyo

An internationally practiced chef with experience in Europe, Australia, and Asia.

(right)
Mototsugu Asada
Hotel Sommelier
Andaz Tokyo

After working at Tokyo’s top hotels and restaurants, he was appointed to his current position when the restaurant opened last year.

(left)
Naoki Watanabe
Executive Director
Tomi no Oka Winery

A winery manager devoting himself to growing grapes, focusing on soil and exploring the “appropriate land and grape variety.”

“Andaz Tokyo is a place that deeply reflects the local region in terms of our interior decor, service, and food,” said Executive Chef Gerhard Passrugger. Just as wine expresses the characteristics of the land where it was produced, international hotels have also come to reflect the identity of the country where they are located. Gerhard’s visit to Tomi no Oka Winery with sommelier Tomotsugu Asada in late August of 2015 was also to help deepen his knowledge of Japan’s food culture.

On that day at Tomi no Oka Winery, Chardonnay and Riesling Forte grapes were being harvested on a trial basis. Winery Executive Director Naoki Watanabe gave a tour of the vineyard while explaining this year’s crop. “This year we had a bumper crop, with large grape clusters and a good growth overall,” he noted. Gerhard sampled a grape in the Merlot vineyard, exclaiming, “Delicious!” Mr. Watanabe replied with the explanation that “Merlot grapes will be further ripened on the vine for about another month or month and a half.” It is important for them to be matured all the way down to their seeds. As harvest time approaches, the sugar content is measured and the grapes are tasted to make sure the seeds have ripened to the point of taking on a rich, nutty flavor. Once this is done, harvest day is decided.

As he examined the vines, Mr. Asada commented on the abundance of leaves and fewer number of grape bunches. Mr. Watanabe agreed, further explaining that because there is more moisture in the air in Japan, there is less photosynthesis taking place in each leaf compared to vines in Europe. Thus, the vines must grow more leaves. On the other hand, for the fruit itself, disbudding and crop thinning clusters will leave each branch with only one cluster. Nutrients are thereby concentrated into this one cluster to condense the flavor. When Mr. Asada also pointed out the unique combined usage of hedgerow and trellis grapevine cultivation techniques, Mr. Watanabe explained that Tomi no Oka Winery’s history of more than one hundred years began with hedgerows, subsequently shifting to trellises. Yet, in the last ten years, a return to hedgerow cultivation has continued to progress. The cultivation technique chosen is dependent upon the individual characteristics of each grape varietal. For example, since Koshu has a high level of tree vigor, trellis cultivation takes advantage of the vine’s ability to extend its branches. Gerhard was quite taken with the sight of the Koshu grape clusters, likening their appearance to chandeliers.

During a tasting session of the vineyard’s entire lineup, it was explained that wines are produced by altering the harvest timing for grapes such as Chardonnay depending on the characteristics of the vineyard. Fermentation is divided between tanks and barrels, and the separately fermented wines are later combined. Upon hearing this, Gerhard’s expression was one of satisfaction as he made the comment: “With the different grape varieties grown and fermented using methods appropriate for each, I can see the reason why the unique characteristics of the soil and grapes come out so clearly in each wine. I can especially feel the robust structure and bright nuance of the Tomi White.”

A dinner will be held that is designed to celebrate the harmony among cuisine prepared by Chef Gehaard Pasrugger and Suntory wine which has been lovingly produced in Japan, accompanied with a talk by Winery Manager Naoki Watanabe and Mototsugu Asada. We will hold a collaboration dinner event at Grand Hyatt Tokyo The French Kitchen with Tomi no Oka winery. We will hold a collaboration dinner event at Chef’s Studio at Andaz Tokyo with Tomi no Oka winery. ＊Andaz Tokyo and Tomi no Oka Winery Collaboration Dinner Date: Wednesday, 25th November Time: 7:00pm to 10:00pm (Doors open 6:30pm)

◎Chef’s Studio at Andaz Tokyo 1-23-4, Toranomon, Minato-ku, Tokyo, Japan ☎ +81-3-6830-1234 Toranomon station (Ginza line) - Exit 1 5 mins walk Kamiyacho station (Hibiya line) – Exit 3 6 mins walk