“Our neighborhood, Hatcho, was named for its distance (eight cho, or about 870 meters) from the birthplace of Tokugawa Ieyasu,” says Maruya head Nobutaro Asai. But with its six-century history, this miso brewer in Okazaki actually predates the first shogun by 200 years. Maruya and its neighbor Kakukyu are the only two companies left who make Aichi prefecture’s famous red Hatcho miso the traditional way.
Two summers, two winters. That’s how long the flavor-packed miso rests in giant wooden vats. Inside are just three core ingredients: soybeans, salt, and water. (Four if you count the all-important koji mold that drives the fermentation process.) Once filled, each vat is piled high with three tons of fieldstones for pressing. The rest is all magic—waiting for the natural soy proteins to break down into savory-rich amino acids.
◎Maruya Hatcho Miso
52 Okan-dori, Hatcho-cho, Okazaki-shi, Aichi
（The Cuisine Magazine /August 2018）