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Japanese Ingredients for the World’s Top Kitchens #10
PREMIUM NORI

Health Food from the Sea

2021.11.04

服部幸應連載 ぶれない味を支える、海苔専門店「三國屋」の目利き
text by Michiko Watanabe / photographs by Jun Kozai / English text by Susan Rogers Chikuba

Though the times are always changing, there are certain timeless ingredients from Japan that will never go out of style. Yukio Hattori, president of Hattori Nutrition College in Tokyo, introduces unique labors of love—items grown and produced with care and integrity by hardworking suppliers across the country.

“Some 6.3 billion sheets of nori are made in Japan annually,” says Motoyuki Shinjaku of Mikuni-ya, a leading producer of the dried laver seaweed that’s pressed into thin sheets and known around the world as the wrapper for sushi. Mikuni-ya purchases its seaweed from growers around the Ariake Sea, the largest bay in Kyushu. “Planting is typically done in mid-October, with the first harvest following about 30 days later, Shinjaku says.”

In a market where manufactured flavorings are not uncommon for the ever-popular seasoned nori, Mikuni-ya differentiates by preparing its own original blend of seasoning from an all-natural mix of high-grade Rishiri kombu, hon-karebushi dried-and-cured bonito, dried shrimp and shiitake, soy sauce, and mirin. “One taste and you’ll know the difference,” Shinjaku asserts confidently.


と舌に蓄積した情報で瞬時に判断して競り落とす。海苔は漁師が摘んですぐ板状の乾海苔に加工。その後、各漁協の入札にかけられ、加工業者が競り落とす。三國屋は初回摘みの海苔が入札される第1回と4回に参加する。漁協は浜ごとに分かれるため、把握すべき情報は膨大だ。
干しエビは瀬戸内産を使用。香りも味わいも穏やか。
Delicately nuanced dried shrimp from the Seto Inland Sea and Rishiri kombu from Kafuku port on Rebun island in Hokkaido are just two of the fine ingredients blended to make the original stock for Mikuni-ya’s seasoned nori.

Delicately nuanced dried shrimp from the Seto Inland Sea and Rishiri kombu from Kafuku port on Rebun island in Hokkaido are just two of the fine ingredients blended to make the original stock for Mikuni-ya’s seasoned nori.


初回摘みの海苔はやわらかく割れやすいため、人の手で詰められる。

First-harvest nori breaks easily and so is packaged by hand. 

焼き海苔も味付海苔もオリジナルブランドのみで販売。

Mikuni-ya markets its products exclusively under its own brand. 

加工場は広島県の山間部。まわりにはスキー場も多い。おいしいだしをとるために、水のよい場所が選ばれた。

The plant sits in the foothills of western Hiroshima on a site chosen for its high-quality water.

26年のバイヤー歴を持つ新尺基之さん。「元々の海苔の質が良くなければ、味付海苔もおいしくなりません」。新尺さんの頭の中には膨大な数の生産者や浜の情報が蓄積されている。

A buyer for 26 years, Motoyuki Shinjaku knows just which ports will be auctioning the best nori for his clients’ needs when.


◎Mikuni-ya
720 Kamitono, Akiota-cho, Yamagata-gun, Hiroshima 
☎082-277-7201
https://mikuniya-nori.jp/

 (The Cuisine Magazine /August 2019)

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